wifi smart wall switch eorks with no hub

While they’re technically different, the principle behind the “closed loop” concept still holds true – you need both live and neutral wires to “close the loop”, similar to positive and negative wires. Live corresponds roughly to positive, and neutral to negative.

In household electricity terms, it’s also no longer called positive or negative – instead, it’s Live and Neutral. For simplicity’s sake, we’ll keep the battery in our diagrams as the power source. In a home setup, you won’t find batteries instead, the power source is at your distribution box (db). This is, essentially, how a traditional light switch works. The moment your wire comes off any of the setup – battery or bulb – the light goes off, as the circuit is now open. Diagram of a simple lighting circuit with a battery Stored electricity from the battery now flows through the wires, into the lightbulb and making it bright, and then back into the battery. This is essentially called completing the circuit, where your circuit is one closed loop. Do the same for the negative terminal of the battery to the negative side of the bulb. Connect the positive terminal of the battery to the positive end of the light bulb with wire. In school, most of us have done little experiments using pieces of wires, a small light bulb, and a battery. Let’s start with some basics, and move on from there. Here, we attempt to break down these questions into easily understood forms. This is one of the most common questions we’ve gotten here at Homesmart.sg – what’s the difference between neutral, and no-neutral switches? Do you need a neutral wire? Should I pull neutral wires? Does your no-neutral switch flicker?

Wifi smart wall switch eorks with no hub